One of the specialties of Hokkaido is a grilled mutton dish called Jingiskan (named after Genghis Khan) by the Japanese.
In the land where sheep farming is actively practiced, we heard about a farm dedicating itself to producing quality pork in a town called Yoichi.
Masaki Kitajima of Kanekita Kitajima Farm succeeded the business from his father five years ago.
Back then, the pig farm offered what was labeled as Hokkaido pork. Its product has evolved into a premium brand Yoichi-raised Kitajima Pork.
With Branding Director Ms. Tsurumoto, we talked to Mr. Kitajima about his thoughts on pig farming and his love and affection for Yoichi Town.
Interviewer: Shoko Tsurumoto
After graduating from Joshibi College of Art and Design, Tsurumoto became involved in art production, management and planning as a collaborator in the contemporary art scene while based in New York and Tokyo. From 2007 to 2014, she helped set up the distribution system in Japan for SUSgallery by handling the entire process from branding to product development and production management to channel development. Since 2015, she has been working as the director/COO at NAGAE＋, the subsidiary of NAGAE Ltd., to dedicate herself in the development of made-in-Japan platform brands by focusing on the metalworking techniques handed down for generations in Takaoka, Toyama.
About Kanekita Kitajima Farm
Starting in the 1970s with just two pigs, Kanekita Kitajima Farm has now flourished into a pig farm that distributes 10,000 pigs annually thanks to the nature’s blessings and human connections the town offers.
The health of the pigs is dependent on the pure spring water drawn from a 150-meter deep aquifer. In pursuit of the best way to provide the safest product while maintaining the highest level of sanitation in and outside the farm, the farmers raise the pigs under great care and attention on a daily basis.
Would you feed that meat to your child?
Kitajima: Just around the time that I took over the pig farm, Japan was hit by the food poisoning scare from frozen dumplings from China.
The incident made me wonder, would I want to feed that kind of meat to my children?
Wanting the best for my family had motivated me to produce good-quality pork by raising the pigs without drugs.
ーYou were concerned about food safety.
My father’s sole focus was on getting the products out.
But I couldn’t understand why our name wasn’t on the products.
This is another reason why I took the matter in my own hands.
ーI heard that back then it was the industry standard to give pigs antibiotics for disease prevention.
That is correct. We didn’t follow suit mainly because we were still struggling financially and could not afford antibiotics.
Also, when we had our water inspected by digging as deep as 150 meters, we found out it contained very little bacteria. If there are no pathogens, there is no reason to use antibiotics.
That’s why we can raise healthy pigs under a healthy diet.
ーWhat makes Kitajima Pork so special?
Pigs are on an oil meal diet to increase their calorie intake. Because we use vegetable oil instead of animal fat, there is nothing that the pigs don’t need.
With Kitajima Pork, there is no foam that floats to the surface when used in shabu shabu (hot pot dish). Many customers have pointed out that even elderly people enjoy the flavor.
Farmer that dashes off to customers whenever and wherever needed
Kitajima makes a conscious effort to call in on potential customers himself.
Kitajima: I always pay a visit myself when it comes to talking to potential customers that are interested in our product for their restaurants or stores.
I tell them all about what makes Kitajima Pork a great choice.
Soon after my visit, I get a call expressing their desire to carry our product, most of the time without asking for a price list.
ーWhy talk to the customers directly when you can have meat packers deal with it?
Meat packers simply connect us to other businesses to sell Kitajima Pork. They are not involved in the actual farming. Naturally, there are some questions from customers that they cannot answer, which could lead to a loss of opportunity.
That’s why it is most effective for me, as someone that knows Kitajima Pork the best, to go talk to the customers directly and convey my philosophy.
People often call me “farmer on the go.” They all think I’m a rare breed.
ーI’ve seen Kitajima Pork on the menu at the Nikka Whisky’s restaurant.
We sell wholesale to businesses in Yoichi and Sapporo.
In addition, we deal with five meat packers in order to supply Kitajima Pork to different clienteles such as butchers, meat processors, gift retailers and food services.
The chefs and meat packers that handle Kitajima Pork all say that the product speaks for itself. There is nothing that makes me happier.
ーWe can say that the quality of Kitajima Pork makes it possible to set foot on new accounts yourself and have others promote the product.
You cannot drop in on potential customers unless you are very confident of what you offer.
Plus, talking to people directly shows your passion.
I think that is why everyone helps us spread the word that we offer good-tasting pork.
ーI see. With the overwhelming popularity in Hokkaido, does it ever occur to you that you can charge more?
We have no intentions of raising the prices.
If we did, people wouldn’t be able to afford it.
What is most important to me is to help people become healthy.
If our product becomes expensive and unaffordable, it defeats the purpose.
Of course, it is easy to charge more. But it goes against what I stand for.
Changing Yoichi Town
I always have the aspiration to help change Yoichi Town for the better.
Yoichi Town does not have much other than Nikka Whiskey. On the other hand, there are people that choose to live there.
Recently, I’ve had a few opportunities to get together with young business owners to discuss over drinks how we want to change the town. There are enthusiastic youngsters that bombard me with questions regardless of our age difference.
Together with what I have learned in the past few years, I wish to pass on my thoughts for this town to the next generation.
My hope is to make the great products of Yoichi widely known in Hokkaido and across Japan.
ーTell us about your specific goals for the near future.
We are now working on producing Kitajima Pork that can only be purchased in Yoichi Town.
This involves bringing in more people to Yoichi Town and letting the town be known to more people.
I want to do all that I can to make that dream come true.
“Be boldly modest.”
These are words of wisdom from my senior colleague.
I would like to always keep those words in mind, so I stay humble under any circumstances, no matter how much I make progress.
Kitajima Farm Website
Restaurants that serve Kitajima Pork
余市食材レストラン ヨイッチーニ / スープカレー 海ぞく / らーめん 空に虹 / 讃助 （サスケ） / 居酒屋ダイニング いっ徳 / 余市川温泉 / カクト徳島屋旅館 / 菊鮨 （2019.3 at the moment ）
Online sites that handle products from Kitajima Farm
- Shoko Tsurumoto
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After graduating from Joshibi College of Art and Design, Tsurumoto became involved in art production, management and planning as a collaborator in the contemporary art scene while based in New York and Tokyo. From 2007 to 2014, she helped set up the distribution system in Japan for SUSgallery by handling the entire process from branding to product development and production management to channel development. Since 2015, she has been working as the director/COO at NAGAE＋, the subsidiary of NAGAE Ltd., to dedicate herself in the development of made-in-Japan platform brands by focusing on the metalworking techniques handed down for generations in Takaoka, Toyama.
